The weather is cooling off so it’s time to release our EC Custom Winter Clothing Line to a bulk order so everyone can SAVE $! Order online between Now and December 1st! If you are unsure of sizing, stop by the shop, as we currently have a sample fit kit available so you can try stuff on! But from our past experience with Fast Freddie Clothing, all items run pretty true to size. Follow the directions below to order!
Sorry for the delays in these postings. This is a project we are working on only when extra time permits. Hopefully, from a business standpoint, this project takes forever! But like everyone else, we can’t hardly wait until we can get it done and RIDE IT!
Crankset Ingredients: SRAM XO Silver 42/28 Crankset
Tools: 8mm Allen Wrench, Torque Wrench and Bits
Locks and Lubes: Park Grease or equivalent.
By READING THE INSTRUCTIONS, determine what parts are actually needed from what is included…
and in what order they need to be installed.
Install the parts that belong on the drive side…
…push them into place…
…and then on the non drive side…
…then install the crank spindle into the previously installed BB…
…and push all the way through, making sure every part ends up where it is supposed to.
Make sure that the non drive side crank arm splines are loaded up with grease…
Use your 8mm allen wrench to tighten the crank arm into place. Remember to make sure the non drive side crank arm is exactly 180 degrees opposite the drive side crank arm.
Find out what the appropriate torque specs are, either from the instructions, or like in this case, the info that is actually printed on the crank itself.
Torque it down…
…to that spec.
Next up, the fork installation.
Today, it’s the bottom bracket install!
Bottom Bracket Ingredients: Chris KIng Stepped Bottom Bracket for SRAM/TruVativ
Tools: Measuring Caliper, Park BB Cup Tool BBT-19, Torque Wrench and Bits
Locks and Lubes: Copper Paste
First off, we need to determine the width of the bottom bracket shell using our calipers, which in this case is 73mm. We then read the instructions to find out which of the parts included with the BB we need to actually use. Next, we apply copper paste as an anti-seize/lube to help keep the ti threads from galling the alloy threads and to buffer between the two dis-similar metals to prohibit oxidation. This way, if we ever need to remove the BB, we’ll actually be able to get it out!
Insert the non drive side cup and hand tighten. Be sure to avoid cross threading and since it is the non drive side, it is the traditional righty tighty when installing.
Prep and install the drive side next, but this time the shell is reversed threaded. So, lefty tighty! Hand tighten.
WE JUST GOT WORD THAT OUR TRUCK WITH OUR FIRST SHIPMENT OF 2014 SALSA EL MARIACHI 29ERS SHOULD ARRIVE EARLY NEXT WEEK! THAT MEANS THEY SHOULD HIT OUR SALES FLOOR BY THE END OF NEXT WEEK!
The Rear Wheel Ingredients: Chris King ISO Disc QR 36h Green Hub, Velocity Blunt 35 29er Ano Green Rim, DT Swiss Competition2.0/1.8/2.0 285mm Spokes, DT Brass 2.0 Nipples.
Tools Needed: Park Spoke Wrench, DT Nipple Holder. Park Pro Truing Stand, Wheels Mfg Nipple Driver, Park Dishing Tool and Park Tension Meter.
Lubes and Locks: Park Grease, Boiled Linseed Oil.
The build for this wheel is pretty much like the front, but this time we thought I’d show you a few more of the tools and steps that go into building a wheel that we only metioned last time but didn’t show you photos of.
First off, the very first thing we do once we have everything together for the build is to grease the spoke nipple beds inside the rim. This consists of taking Park grease and, with a q-tip…
…applying grease to the area of the rim where the spoke nipple butts up against the rim.
This makes sure you can bring the tension of the spoke up properly without the metals binding and squealing while at the same keeping the spokes from “winding up” when tightened.
Have you ever heard the spokes ping when you get on a new bike or on a new set of wheels? That is the spoke/nipple assembly “unwinding” due to the “winding” of that assembly that the friction created at the nipple/rim bed of a non greased nipple/rim bed. This is minimized also during the wheel build by frequently squeezing pairs of spokes together to facilitate whatever “winding” might still be happening, despite the grease.
Since we went trough all the other steps with the other wheel, we’ll skip to a part we glossed over last time, the dishing of the wheel. Because the rear wheel has the freehub body outside of the spoke flange, but is still within the axle length, we need to make sure the rim is centered exactly to the center of the axle. If we didn’t check “the dish” the rim would settle centered to the spoke flanges, not the over axle length. If you look at a rear wheel, the drive side spokes are at much less of an angle as compared to the non drive side spokes. Because of the situation, we only need to tension the drive side of the wheel to the proper tension and the non drive spokes tension just ends up with whatever tension they end up with when the drive side is correct. And that’s why when you squeeze the spokes together on a rear wheel, the non drive side spokes seem loose compared to the drive side spokes. That is situation normal. If we were to tension all the spokes all the same, the rim would move back towards the center of the spoke flanges and not the overall axle length. Whew.
To get this correct, we use a wheel dishing tool, various times, throughout the build. The end of the gauge, when pushed flat onto one axle end, it needs to rest flat on the other axle end. If there is any space between the gauge and the axle end on, one side or the other, the rim needs to be pulled, via the spokes, away from that side until they are both touching the axle end, making the wheel perfectly dished.
Note: This effect applies to front disc wheels as well due to the disc flange being within the front axel length. This is also why each wheel generally needs two sizes of spokes. One for the drive side (non disc side of the front wheel) and one size for the non drive side (the disc side on the front wheel). The rim is just closer to the drive side flange (the disc side on the front wheel) that the non dive side (the non disc side on the front wheel). Front wheels without disc brakes actually have the the rim dead center between the spoke flanges as they are equidistant from the axle ends and almost naturally center themselves during a build. Although you should always use a dishing gauge to insure perfection! Single speed rear wheels do not have much dishing either.
Having a rear wheel with a disc brake actually makes the dishing a bit easier as well as the disc side pushes the flange inwards too, making the final spoke tensions closer together.
Dishing a wheel perfectly is trickey and tedious, but the real trick is having the finished wheel perfectly round, true, dished AND tensioned. This is where accomplished wheel builders get their well earned rep. Getting 3 out of 4 perfect and just getting close on number 4 doesn’t cut it. The best builders are always 4 for 4!
When a wheels builds are 4 for 4, the wheels become pretty much bullet proof and last quite a long time. Machine built wheels tend to get all 4 areas pretty close, but the precision of a handbuilt wheel makes a huge difference in how well a wheel holds it’s shape, whatever the conditions it is ridden in!
Together, AT LAST! The Ti Fargo Project rear wheel finally joins the party!
The Front Wheel Ingredients: Chris King ISO Disc 15mm 36h Green Hub, Velocity Blunt 35 29er Ano Green Rim, DT Swiss Competition2.0/1.8/2.0 285mm Spokes, DT Brass 2.0 Nipples.
Tools: Park Spoke Wrench, DT Nipple Holder. Not pictured Park Pro Truing Stand, Wheels Mfg Nipple Driver, Park Dishing Tool and Park Tension Meter.
Lubes and Locks: Park Grease, Boiled Linseed Oil.
Grease the spoke holes on the rim and load the spokes the spokes into the hub.
Prepare each spoke with linseed oil. This insures lubrication to proper tension and a thread lock that liquifies when twisted again later for truing and then re-hardens to hold the wheel true.
Use the nipple holder to insert the nipple through the spoke hole…
and attach to the spoke.
Set the wheel into the truing stand.
Use the nipple driver to set each nipple to a uniform on each spoke.
Make the wheel round and true while keeping it dished and properly tensioned.
Now, that’s a round, true, properly dished and tensioned wheel!
Voila, behold what I have created! And I shall name it Fred, err, The Front Wheel!